LIFETIME of WALKS by DEREK HARWOOD

I waited at the agreed time for the school bus to collect me outside Bettyhill Hotel. I noticed a pedestrian bench opposite the hotel, so I sat down and waited patiently for the bus. Right on time the empty bus arrived, so I climbed on and sat down alongside the driver. We immediately started chatting, so I explained the previous day's walking along Strath Naver, Walk 1180. The driver was interested because the day before he had given me a bus ride to enable me to return to my car. We turned off the A836 road at the B871 junction, travelling south along the single track road with passing places. After a while, on a straight section of the road, I could see a car travelling towards us. This was obviously not unusual but, on this occasion the car and the bus did not slow down as the gap between them closed. I started to get worried, but as the vehicles passed each other, they both gave a small wiggle and carried on their journey at the same speed. Unbelievable, I was flabbergasted. I asked the driver about the situation, explaining my concerns whilst choosing my words with care, so he explained in detail. He said that he recognized the car therefore he knew that the car driver was experienced with the situation and would have perfected the maneuver over many times. Basically both vehicle drivers knew the road very well, including the passing places. Therefore each driver adjusted their vehicle speed, according to the road conditions and the distance to the passing place, so that the vehicles arrive at the passing place at the same time with the appropriate speed. Therefore, with a quick flick of the steering wheel at exactly the right moment, would enable the vehicles to pass at the best speed possible. We eventually reached the village of Syre, where I had finished walking the previous day. I asked the driver how much the fare was for the two bus journeys, and he said, “Nothing!”. Again I was flabbergasted, so I said, 'how come, I've had two bus journeys'. He explained that the boss (Mr Hird – 07782 110007) had told him not to charge for the two rides as I was the first person to use the bus service other than the school children. The primary purpose for the bus service was to take the children from the outlying villages, to and from their school in Bettyhill Village. I asked the driver to thank the boss for me. How wonderful was that? Alighting the bus I started walking north as happy as a sandman. The noise of the bus disappeared into the distance and was replaced with the tranquility of the countryside, miles from any town or industry. From the village Parish Church I walked the short distance to the road junction with the B871 at the telephone box and continued north, passing Syre Lodge and the village cottages to Langdale Burn. The burn was no more than a trickle, because it was summer and the North of Scotland was experiencing a dry spell of weather. However the burn would normally be a raging torrent, especially in the winter or during a wet spell. After passing the Hamlet of Langdale, I came to the Hamlet of Skail & the hand railed wooden raised path to the 'Chambered Cairn', by the Strathnaver Trail Post, on the right. I didn't appreciate the significance of the footpath until I reached the Information Board in the lay-by, near the Post Office, a little further along the lane. The Information Board was very interesting, a must read. Basically the Hamlet of Skail had existed for centuries from the small area of arable land, where a handful of dwellings stood until the 'Clearances' in 1819. The Chambered Cairn was associated with the hamlet & the Burial Ground for the community. Opposite the Car Park was another Strathnaver Trail Post, alongside a stile to a footpath to 'Red Priest's Stone'. This is another reminder of the Ancient Hamlet. At this point I noticed a sheep dog in the local farmer's general working vehicle. The farmer was giving instructions to another sheep dog, which was chasing about 'rounding up' the sheep in the field. It was a wonderful experience to see in the real world, instead of a competition on the television. I walked on until I reached the Strath Naver Public Hall & Memorial Stone. At this point there was yet another Strathnaver Trail Post alongside another must read Information Board and Memorial Stone. This is where the 93rd Sutherland Highlands Regiment was formed in 1800. After refreshments from my rucksack I continued north in the sunshine, towards Bettyhill, along the beautiful and picturesque Strath Naver. With ideal walking conditions and scenery there was a spring in my step. It was just me walking alongside nature. The single track lane twisted its way close to the River Naver with just an occasional cottage, vehicle or cyclist. Sometimes the lane was adjacent to the river and sometimes it was a field or two away. Also sometimes there was only a single bush or tree around and sometimes I walked alongside a wooded area, all adding to the sheer enjoyment of the walk. When I started to approach the road junction with the A836 I saw more and more evidence of the activities of the fishermen in the area. I even saw a gap in the roadside barrier for access to a ladder to enable the fishermen to reach the water level safely. Eventually I was delighted to see a couple of fishermen fly fishing in their wades actually in the river. I never saw them catch anything but they were obviously enjoying themselves. When I did reach the A836 main road, I could clearly see the cottages on the opposite side of the River Naver. I was obviously approaching civilization. As I started to walk along the main road I immediately came to a road sign which read '55 miles to John 'o Groats' (88 kilometres). This encouraged me to battle on to my goal. The main road was relatively busy with traffic, so I had to be much more careful walking alongside the cars and lorries (trucks). I obviously walked on the right hand side of the road, facing the traffic. The only exception was when I walked around a sharp turn to the right, then, I felt safer on the left hand side of the road. I almost immediately returned to the right hand side of the road to face the traffic again. The road slowly gained height with trees and bushes on both sides of the road most of the way before reaching Achnabourin buildings. I did pass the odd cottage here and there, but mostly this was on the descent from the brow of the hill. Most cottages looked very desirable residences. But unfortunately the work prospects were very limited, especially if you weren't a local of the Highlands. When I reached Leckfurin, the properties became more numerous and the surrounding views 'opened up', to reveal the beautiful countryside in the sunshine again. This beauty was further enhanced around the Invernaver Road as I passed several fields full of buttercups. The fields were literally full of flowers, from hedgerow to hedgerow. This was a glorious sight with the backdrop of the hills in the distance. When I reached the Naver River road bridge, I had to be even more careful around the traffic, as the bridge was a single lane bridge with no lights to control the flow of traffic. Almost all drivers are sensible and give way when necessary but accidents do happen, so the last thing I wanted was a sudden change of plan after setting up the schedule for my visit to the Highlands of Scotland. I turned left after the bridge towards Bettyhill Village and a narrow footpath which slowly ascended up the hill. The driver of the bus lived and parked his bus in one of the properties near the bottom of the hill. As I approached Bettyhill the views across river estuary became more and more glorious, especially as the amount of sand became more visible. The view just before the bend into the village was a chocolate box picture, with the wide expanse of sand and the open sea of Torrisdale Bay in the distance. This was a glorious sight to behold. I crossed the road to my car in the hotel car park and took off my rucksack before entering the hotel. What a wonderful day's walking adventure. There was so much to enjoy and remember. I strongly recommend the walk. Take care and have fun.

Location Map: - www.streetmap.co.uk,
Start: at KW11 6UG - Syre Church B873/B871
Finish: at KW14 7TD - Bettyhill Hotel, North Coast, Highlands