LIFETIME of WALKS by DEREK HARWOOD

I travelled from Milngavie and drove to the B8005, parking near Gairlochy Locks as close as possible to the triangular road arrangement nearby and making a conscious decision not to park in a 'Passing Place'. I found a pull-in by the junction road sign and waited for the rain to stop, but it wouldn't. After a short while I couldn't wait any longer so I braved the elements and started cycling. I cycled past the lock keepers hut and looked for a place to park my bike at the start of the next section of the Great Glen Way. The rain got even heavier and the strong wind was in my face and got even worse too. The canal towpath was in fact a smooth stoney road and very suitable for cycling in calm sunny weather. By the time I reached Fort William, via the A830 & A82, I was like a drowned rat. When I cycled along North Road of the A82 there were road works causing a major traffic jam, so I cycled on the path. At the roundabout on the A82 where the main road turned right on to Belmont Road and Glen Nevis Road from the right, I chained my dripping wet bike to a noisy drain pipe of the 'Whisky Shop', as close as possible to the Start/End of the West Highland Way sign. The pipe was under the eaves of the shop so my bike would be drying while I was walking. I did enter the shop and confirmed that the bike was ok to be left there until I returned. I walked north east along the A82 of North Road, passing the River Nevis and Ardmevos Road, Claggan, with a misty Ben Nevis in the Background. I continued through the road works to a footpath on the left, almost opposite 'Ben Nevis Motors', with a stile leading to a footbridge over the railway. I turned right onto General Wade's Military Road or Black Parks Road, away from the houses, passing the Black Parks Playing Fields, then the site of Inverlochy Battles 1431 & 1645 on the left and Inverlochy Castle on the right. I must admit that I was drawn to the railway sidings on the right with the Black Five steam engine being 'fired up', ready for its daily service from Fort William to Malaig, hauling 'The Racobite Express'. The lane let to the footbridge of Soldiers Bridge over the River Lochy and alongside the railway bridge. At the end of the footbridge I reached the B8006 of Kilmallie Road, here I turned right to the main A830 road and turned left passing Lochaber High School on the right. After about 1.25 miles or nearly 2km I reach the Caledonian Canal at a 'Swivel Bridge, with Banavie Railway Station on the left and Neptune's Staircase on the right. The Swivel Bridge is designed to let high sailing boats with tall masts to pass. The staircase consists of 8 locks gaining a height of 64 feet (20 metres). While I was climbing the staircase on the towpath, thankfully the rain stopped for awhile, but the wind and the mist persisted. There were numerous boats mooring near the top loch of all shapes and sizes, a picturesque sight with the trees and the distant hills and mountains all around. As I progressed along the towpath the rain soon started again but undeterred I kept my eyes peeled and enjoyed what I could see. The north west bank of the canal was full of trees with the occasional glimpse of a residence along with the backdrop of the mountains. A little sunshine would have helped the views enormously but instead I pulled up my hood and plodded on walking the south east bank of the canal. The views to my right were almost nonexistent due to the almost continuous hedge blocking the vista of the River Lochy and the Lochaber valley towards the Ben Nevis Range of mountains. I do wish the authorities would clear a small area every so often to allow the beautiful views to be visible. I've always thought this when driving alongside a loch; the passengers rarely see the views which are obviously there. I know it is important to save and encourage as many trees as possible but the views could be enjoyed by the tourists and travellers if a few trees were removed and replaced on the hillsides of the mountains around. I've walked in many high areas and wondered why more of the land grazed by sheep isn't replaced by forestered areas. For every tree removed, many more could be planted. The tree rescuer 'Swampy' who tried to save one tree near Manchester, England, by living under the tree, could have spent the time planting thousands of trees elsewhere. In the past I have walked past many benches on hillsides which once had glorious views but the lack of maintenance has meant a bench installed for the views is not used by passing walkers because the bench has for example a field behind and high bushes in front. I continued walking along the Caledonian Canal in the rain, passing the mountains of Meall Bhanbhaidh, Sron Liath and Beinn Bhan with the Glens of Laragain & Loy between. I passed Torcastle Cottages alongside Alit Sheangain waters from Gleann Laragain far below and another well maintained small white cottage in a small field alongside the canal towpath. Just before I reached the River Loy I noticed a field mouse scurrying through the long grass. I followed his path and eventually saw him hiding under the grass. I didn't disturb him but wished him luck raising many children. At the River Loy were the Loy sluices, built to remove the excess water from the canal into the River Locky. After the sluices I came to the very small Moy Ferry with its associated Ferryman's Hut, The ferryman was sheltering from the heavy rain in the doorway of his hut, so I asked him if I could shelter for a while, hoping the rain would ease. He invited me into his hut so we naturally started to chat. Every now and again he would go the entrance of his hut to throw a ball for his dog to retrieve. The dog was obviously thoroughly soaked but didn't mind he just wanted to play. The ferryman explained that the dog wanted to play ball all day long until his shift finished. I asked if he got tired of throwing the ball and he said that when he has had enough he accidentally throws the ball into the canal because the dog won't go into the canal with the sides of the canal being too steep for him to get out. I said that he must lose lots of balls so he explained that eventually he gets into his small ferryboat and rescues the ball for the next day's throwing session. The rain hadn't eased but I decided it was time to continue walking. I soon passed the Moy Buriel Grounds on the opposite bank where the river Allt Coire Chraoibhe empties into the canal, so keeping the water level at the correct height for the large passing boats. Soon after Moy the River Lochy flowed very close to the canal at almost the same water level as the canal, with only the towpath and a small embankment separating the two. This was one of the very few times during the walk that I could see towards the Lochaber Valley and Ben Nevis, because there was very little room for a hedge to grow. Just before the separation of the river and canal and Gairlochy, I crossed a bridge over the canal overflow point. This is where any excess water in the canal can flow into the river, for example after prolonged heavy rain. When I reached Gairlochy Locks I asked the lock keeper if I could use the space by his hut to park my bicycle the next day to walk the next section of the Great Glen Way. He agreed so I thanked him and walked over the swing bridge happy, knowing that was another problem solved which would save me the searching and the extra walk. I walked over the Gairlochy Swing Bridge and up to the B8005 to collect my car. I drove into Fort William the pretty way using the B8004 to collect my bicycle near the 'End of the West Highland Way' sign and find my accommodation for the night. Another good day's walking in Scotland which would have been much more enjoyable if it wasn't for the persistent heavy rain. Fingers crossed for tomorrow!

Location Map: - www.streetmap.co.uk, - Start: at End of West Highland Way at A82 & Glen Nevis Road.
Finish: at Gairlochy Lochs - Caledonian Canal at B8004 .